In the heart of the French Alps, about 20km east of Grenoble, lies l’Oisans. Here, narrow, steep-sided valleys are walled by cliffs that rise a thousand metres. Above, grassy pastures stretch towards soaring 3,000m peaks. Once a refuge for early tribes during the retreat of the great glaciers, l’Oisans’ harsh terrain proved both a sanctuary and a challenge. Those who braved it extracted copper and zinc to forge weapons – traces of the earliest mines still remain.
Today, l’Oisans is better known for a different quest: the legendary Tour de France ascent to Alpe d’Huez. Cyclists tackle the 14km climb with...